France has introduced new fees on ultra-fast fashion products, with charges potentially reaching nearly €20 per item by 2030. The measure, which came into effect on Tuesday, follows legislation passed in June targeting major e-commerce platforms such as Shein, Temu and AliExpress, which French officials have criticised for encouraging high-volume consumption of inexpensive clothing.
The fees will vary depending on the type of garment and its environmental impact. In 2026, charges range from €0.50 for underwear and €2 for T-shirts to €9 for jeans and €12 for jackets. The levy could rise to €19.50 per item by 2030, although it will remain capped at 50% of the product’s pre-tax price. Retailers such as H&M and Zara are not currently covered by the measure.
French officials say the policy aims to address the environmental and economic impact of ultra-fast fashion. However, China’s commerce ministry has criticised the legislation as discriminatory and potentially inconsistent with World Trade Organization rules. Shein has warned that the fees could hurt French consumers’ purchasing power, while Temu has argued that, as a marketplace rather than a manufacturer, it should not be classified as a fast-fashion company.
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