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Europe’s retail industry is bracing for renewed pressure as rising energy prices linked to the ongoing U.S.-Israeli conflict with Iran threaten to push operating costs higher. Retail stocks, including Zara owner Inditex and Britain’s Marks & Spencer, fell as investors warned that higher fuel and gas prices could hurt an already fragile sector. The industry has barely recovered from the inflation shock caused by soaring energy costs following Russia’s invasion of Ukraine, while consumer demand across the euro zone and the UK remains weak.

Retailers are particularly vulnerable because energy costs directly affect supply chains and store operations. Transport expenses, which account for about 5% to 10% of a retailer’s operating costs, are expected to rise as fuel prices climb. Supermarkets and shopping centres also face higher electricity expenses for refrigeration, heating, air conditioning and lighting. At the same time, rising oil prices are pushing fertiliser costs higher, adding further pressure on food producers and ultimately driving up prices across the supply chain.

Analysts warn that the sector may struggle to pass on higher costs to consumers because household spending power has already been weakened by years of inflation. Clothing retailers could be especially exposed, as fashion spending is often the first to be cut when essential costs rise. With Europe’s retail and consumer goods sector already among the most financially distressed industries, industry groups are calling on governments to limit additional inflationary pressures and protect consumers from further cost increases.

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Marks & Spencer (M&S) is overhauling its fashion supply chain from “factory to floor” as part of a major strategy to double its annual online fashion, home, and beauty sales to nearly £3 billion ($4 billion). John Lyttle, who took charge as Managing Director for Fashion, Home, and Beauty in March, said the revamp aims to make M&S a fully omnichannel retailer by modernizing how products are sourced, stored, and delivered to customers. The move follows a strong recovery after an April cyberattack that disrupted online operations and caused around £300 million in losses.

The 141-year-old retailer is investing £120 million in automation to improve efficiency and resilience across its operations. Lyttle emphasized that simplifying logistics and strengthening supply chain partnerships—particularly with factories in Asia and Europe—will help reduce costs and ensure smoother product flow. He noted that M&S has already improved its reputation for value, quality, and style, with fashion, home, and beauty sales rising 9% over the past three years and its market share climbing to 10.5%.

M&S plans to deepen long-term supplier relationships to secure consistent product availability amid global trade challenges. The company also aims to increase online’s share of total non-food sales from 34% to 50% in the coming years. Investors see the shift as a major growth opportunity, with experts saying the modernized supply chain could enhance margins and cement M&S’s position as a leading online and in-store fashion retailer in the UK.

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