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France Introduces Fees Targeting Ultra-Fast Fashion

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France has introduced new fees on ultra-fast fashion products, with charges potentially reaching nearly €20 per item by 2030. The measure, which came into effect on Tuesday, follows legislation passed in June targeting major e-commerce platforms such as Shein, Temu and AliExpress, which French officials have criticised for encouraging high-volume consumption of inexpensive clothing.

The fees will vary depending on the type of garment and its environmental impact. In 2026, charges range from €0.50 for underwear and €2 for T-shirts to €9 for jeans and €12 for jackets. The levy could rise to €19.50 per item by 2030, although it will remain capped at 50% of the product’s pre-tax price. Retailers such as H&M and Zara are not currently covered by the measure.

French officials say the policy aims to address the environmental and economic impact of ultra-fast fashion. However, China’s commerce ministry has criticised the legislation as discriminatory and potentially inconsistent with World Trade Organization rules. Shein has warned that the fees could hurt French consumers’ purchasing power, while Temu has argued that, as a marketplace rather than a manufacturer, it should not be classified as a fast-fashion company.

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France Fines Boohoo €2.3 Million Over Fake Discounts

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France’s consumer watchdog has fined British fast-fashion retailer Boohoo €2.3 million for deceptive practices on its website. The DGCCRF said the company exaggerated discounts, giving shoppers a misleading impression of the savings they were receiving.

The regulator found that 40% of promotions reviewed were not genuine price reductions, while 7% offered smaller discounts than advertised. In 48% of cases, the prices were actually higher. Boohoo was also accused of using terms such as “leather” and “suede” for synthetic products, violating French product-labeling rules.

Boohoo said the issues occurred between October 2023 and February 2024 under its previous management and have since been resolved. The company said it cooperated with the regulator and continues to review its pricing and product-labeling practices. Shares in Boohoo parent Debenhams fell 2.4% on Thursday.

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Protests Erupt as Shein Opens First Permanent Store in Paris

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Chinese fast-fashion giant Shein opened its first permanent physical store on Wednesday inside the historic BHV Marais department store in Paris, drawing large crowds of eager shoppers — and equally strong opposition. Protesters gathered outside carrying signs reading “Shame on Shein,” criticizing the retailer’s low-cost business model and its impact on the environment, workers, and local businesses. Police were deployed to manage tensions as the store launched its promotional offer allowing customers to receive vouchers to spend at other BHV outlets.

The move has sparked backlash from lawmakers and retailers who argue that Shein’s practices undermine France’s textile industry and high streets. Paris Mayor Anne Hidalgo and other officials have condemned the partnership, describing it as a “provocation,” especially as France pushes forward a fast-fashion law that could ban Shein from advertising and impose fees on items sold in the country. The retailer also faces scrutiny after regulators fined it €190 million, with new investigations underway into inappropriate content allegedly sold on the platform.

Despite the controversy, Société des Grands Magasins — owner of BHV — sees the collaboration as a lifeline to attract younger shoppers and revive struggling department stores. Shein has rapidly grown its presence in France, reporting 27.3 million average monthly users earlier this year. As concerns over affordability persist, the French government acknowledges the challenge consumers face in accessing fairly priced clothing while maintaining pressure on Shein to comply with national standards.

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French to get bonus to make do and mend clothes

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France is introducing a bonus scheme to encourage consumers to repair their clothes and shoes rather than discarding them. Starting in October, customers will receive discounts ranging from €6 to €25 per repair.

Bérangère Couillard, the junior ecology minister, expressed concerns about the 700,000 tonnes of clothing that end up in French landfills annually. The government plans to allocate €154 million over five years to fund the program. The aim is to support the repair sector, create job opportunities, and combat the issue of “fast fashion.”

The scheme will offer rebates for various repairs, such as €7 for a new heel and €10-€25 for new lining in garments. Refashion, a group responsible for implementing the initiative, revealed that 3.3 billion clothing items were sold in France last year. However, some critics argue that the government is unfairly stigmatizing the clothing industry and wasting public funds. Pascal Morand of the Haute Couture and Fashion Federation expressed concerns about the potential impact on luxury brands.

In addition to the bonus scheme, France plans to introduce new labeling rules from January 2024. These rules will require manufacturers to disclose the environmental impact of their products, including water usage, chemical usage, the risk of microplastic emissions, and the use of recycled textiles. The fashion industry is a significant sector in France, generating €66 billion in turnover last year and employing thousands of people.

While France is the EU’s fourth-largest fashion exporter, the industry has experienced a decline in recent years. In 2020, French consumers spent an average of €430 on clothing, which is below the EU average.

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European Union: Europe is planning a crackdown on fast fashion

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Fast fashion is being targeted in Europe, with proposals to make clothing made and worn there more durable, reusable, repairable, and recyclable.

The strategy for sustainable textiles, which will be unveiled on Wednesday, will focus on clothing at every stage of its life cycle, including design, repair, and recycling. The initiative aims to increase demand for garments that are made in a sustainable manner.

Manufacturers will have to ensure that their clothes are both environmentally friendly and durable. Furthermore, consumers will be provided with more information on how to reuse, repair, and recycle their clothing.

The European Commission’s rules, according to Iona Popescu of the Environmental Coalition on Standards, are designed to bring in longer-lasting products that can be worn multiple times rather than worn once and thrown away. “By introducing rules on textiles to be used in the European market, the Commission hopes to put a stop to fast fashion,” she said.

Under an initiative known as the Sustainable Products Initiative (SPI), similar rules will apply to electronics such as smartphones and furniture, she added. Only about 1% of all clothing is recycled globally, according to estimates.

According to the European Environment Agency, clothing has the fourth highest environmental and climate impact in Europe, trailing only food, housing, and transportation. Textile consumption requires 9 cubic metres of water, 400 square metres of land, 391 kilogrammes of raw materials, and a carbon footprint of about 270 kilogrammes per person in the EU. Politicians in the United Kingdom have urged the government to change the law to require fashion retailers to adhere to environmental regulations.

In 2019, the government rejected the majority of the Environmental Audit Committee’s recommendations, including making clothing manufacturers pay for better clothing collection and recycling, but it has prioritised textile waste.

According to Tamara Cincik of Fashion Roundtable, a think tank for the fashion industry, the textiles strategy could set the tone for future legislation outside of the EU. “If brand expectations in the UK differ from those in the EU, this should encourage stronger expectations of future UK legislation,” she said.

“This is why it is critical for both UK brands and the government to be aware of this strategy, as the EU remains our largest and, in many ways, closest trading partner in the textiles and fashion industries.”

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